Soph’s Scribbles

Georgetown instantly felt different; slower, quieter, and full of character. From colourful street art and wooden jetties to hilltop views, temples, and beach days, our time in Penang became one of the most relaxed and rewarding stops of the trip.

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Travel Day: Kuala Lumpur to Penang

We woke up to an early alarm, no lie-in today, as we were heading to Penang, very exciting! George kicked off the morning with a 5k run around the botanical gardens while I headed to the gym for a quick upper-body workout. Slightly sweaty but feeling good, we showered, packed up, and said goodbye to Kuala Lumpur and the beautiful Majestic Hotel before heading to the airport.

After breezing through security, we had time to grab a bite – a tuna and cheese sandwich and an iced coffee from a slightly moody barista. While wandering the airport shops, we noticed several people with baskets overflowing with Gardenia bread. Curious, we discovered it’s a popular gift to take home to family. Naturally, we had to try it. It was soft, sweet, and very brioche-like.

We flew with Malaysia Airlines, and George was particularly impressed with the extra legroom (especially compared to Scoot!). The flight itself was super quick, and before we knew it, we were touching down in Penang.

First Impressions: Street Art & Chew Jetty

We checked into Le Dream Boutique Hotel, perfectly located just a ten-minute walk from almost everything, a welcome change from KL. George was very excited to be in a town named after him!

We headed straight out for a wander and, in true Sophie-and-George fashion, stumbled upon some of Georgetown’s famous street art, including the iconic Boy on a Motorcycle. We also found Umbrella Alley and browsed through charming little shops. George even treated me to a gold ring for just 10 ringgit, an absolute steal!

Continuing on, we made our way to Chew Jetty, arriving just in time to find the nearby food market. George ordered pork dumplings, I went for honey soy chicken, and as we walked along the wooden jetty, we finally saw the sea for the first time on this trip! We kicked off our Birkenstocks, dangled our feet off the pier, and watched the sunset, feeling instantly relaxed. Naturally, we topped it off with a Winnie the Pooh ice cream. Georgetown already felt calmer and more chilled than Singapore and KL — exactly what we needed.

That evening, we headed to Reggae Street, just a short walk away, and stopped at Pokok Bar. Great vibes, live music, and more than a few Gusty Grape Tiger beers for me. On the way home, we grabbed a late night bite from a street food spot called Naughtyma, the perfect end to our first night in Penang.

Temples, Turtles & Penang Hill

After a slightly fuzzy wake-up, we wandered to La Petit Flour for much-needed coffee and croissants. I went for almond, obviously. From there, we headed toward Penang Hill, stopping first at Kek Lok Si Temple, the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia.

We were greeted by hundreds of terrapins, and for just 20p, we fed them leaves while they adorably scrambled over one another. We spent hours exploring the temple grounds, climbing the pagoda, riding the incline lift up to the enormous bronze statue, and tying a wishing ribbon to a tree. The heat was intense, so we took a shaded break and soaked in the calm, peaceful atmosphere; easily one of the highlights of our time in Penang.

Feeling ambitious, fueled by a bottle of Mango Tango Juicy Water, we attempted the “easy” hiking route up Penang Hill (according to Google). Ten minutes in, we were already huffing up a brutally steep incline in full sun. A quick check on AllTrails revealed it had nearly the same gradient as Snowdon! Decision made – we turned around and took the funicular train instead.

At the top, we were rewarded with sweeping panoramic views over the island. We even spotted our accommodation, looking absolutely tiny from above. After a wander, we headed back down to cool off and freshen up.

A Michelin Surprise & Jazz on Reggae Street

Dinner plans took an unexpected turn when our original choice was closed, but this turned out to be a blessing in disguise. We stumbled upon Sambal, a Michelin-rated restaurant; and it was incredible.

We ordered truffle fries, honey-glazed BBQ pork ribs, salt and pepper chicken wings, and bao buns filled with pork and fish, paired with an array of sauces. It was easily one of the best meals we’d had on the trip and our first proper sit-down restaurant since arriving in Southeast Asia. Such a treat after weeks of street food.

After dinner, we wandered back to Reggae Street and found a bar with live jazz. With a Coke in hand, we played chess and Jenga, amazed our tower stayed standing for so long. Hard to believe it had already been a week – we’d covered 70.5 miles, averaging ten miles a day… nearly three marathons!

Beach Day Bliss at Batu Ferringhi

After another great night’s sleep (George proudly scored a Garmin 99), we headed out for breakfast: acai bowls and iced matcha, hands down the best I’ve ever had.

The day before, we’d chatted with a friendly local who recommended Batu Ferringhi, about 30 minutes away, so we hopped on a slightly bumpy bus and headed for the coast. It was our first beach day of the holiday, and wow, absolutely stunning.

A drop of rain teased us as we arrived, but just as we settled into our sun loungers, the clouds parted and the sun stayed out all day. Perfect timing. We spent hours reading, relaxing, and soaking it all in. Swimming was off-limits due to jellyfish, but a shoreline stroll and feet in the water was more than enough.

On the way back, the bus frustratingly drove straight past us 🥴, but we ended up laughing it off and making a new friend, Giovanni, who chatted with us the entire ride home.

Dinner plans took another turn when Deens was closed, and a sudden thunderstorm sent us running for cover. We ducked into La Da, which turned out to be a brilliant find. I had a chicken and rice bowl, and George ordered Me Tarik noodles. The perfect comfort food!

Final Morning in Penang

Our final day arrived far too quickly. We packed up, George squeezed in one last run, and we headed out to soak up Georgetown one more time. We wandered past more street art, browsed the markets for the essential keyring and fridge magnet, and stumbled across a small Vietnamese café George insisted we try.

The Vietnamese coffee was rich, strong, and served with condensed milk. It completely lived up to the hype! We paired it with scrambled eggs on toast, which honestly felt like a taste of home and ended our time in Penang on the highest note.

Georgetown surprised us in the best way; relaxed, creative, full of heart, and somewhere we’d happily return to again.