The journey to Ljubljana didn’t start too smoothly! Our train randomly stopped, and we were told to get off with no real explanation, meaning we missed our connection. After 3 trains and a long, slightly chaotic 7-hour ordeal, we finally arrived in Ljubljana. Thankfully, the incredible scenery along the way made up for it. Rolling landscapes, mountains, and picturesque views had us wowed.
From the station, we walked to our hostel along the river, which quickly became our favourite part of the city. It felt like the heart of everything; lively, scenic, and full of atmosphere. We passed the iconic Dragon Bridge, spotting the famous dragon statues straight away. After checking in, we headed out for dinner and landed at Pop’s Place. Burgers, Aperol, and beer, hit the spot perfectly. We were on our way to watch football at an English pub when we stumbled across a beautiful Slovenian wine bar instead (lucky escape for me!). That detour turned into one of the highlights of the evening! Two red and orange wines later, we were very happy with our decision.
The next morning started with a great night’s sleep and a plan: a free walking tour at 11am. Before that, we stopped at the famous Klobasarna for a traditional Slovenian breakfast. We shared a rich barley stew with Carniolan sausage, served with soup and bread. It was delicious! We also tried štruklji, dumplings filled with cottage cheese, walnuts, tarragon, and apple. Not quite our favourite, but still fun to try something so traditional.
We met our guide, Helena, who was fantastic; warm, knowledgeable, and clearly passionate. The only downside? The weather. It was absolutely pouring, and for a moment it felt like we’d been transported back to Manchester. It was a good job we packed the waterproofs!
Despite the rain, the tour was incredibly worthwhile. The history of Ljubljana really stood out, especially the strong sense of national identity and pride. Helena explained how Slovenia’s language has been central to its identity, particularly through periods of foreign rule and the struggle for independence.
Slovenian History
We learned how Ljubljana began as the Roman settlement of Emona, later evolving under the Habsburg monarchy into a cultural hub. After the devastating 1895 Ljubljana earthquake, the city was largely rebuilt in a modern style.
Post-WWI, it became part of Yugoslavia then during WWII: occupied by Fascist Italy, then Nazi Germany. Ljubljana became part of the newly formed Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes (later Yugoslavia).
In 1991, Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia, and Ljubljana became the capital of the new nation, Slovenia.
The Dragon
Of course, we also dove into the story behind the city’s most famous symbol… the dragon. Legend links it to Jason, who supposedly defeated a dragon in the marshes here. Today, the dragon represents strength, courage, and protection, proudly featured across the city.
Mythological roots
One popular legend connects the dragon to the Greek hero Jason. According to the story, Jason and the Argonauts passed through the area and defeated a dragon that lived in the marshes near present-day Ljubljana. The dragon in the city’s imagery is often seen as that creature.
Symbol of power and courage
Over time, the dragon came to represent strength, bravery, and protection. In medieval symbolism, dragons could be both fearsome and protective, so Ljubljana adopted it as a guardian figure watching over the city.
City identity and pride
Today, the dragon is a proud emblem of Ljubljana and appears on its coat of arms, flag, and architecture, most famously on the Dragon Bridge, where four large dragon statues guard the crossing.
We also learned about the architect Jože Plečnik, who shaped much of Ljubljana’s unique look. His love of symmetry and classical inspiration is visible all over the city, from bridges to markets, many of which echo ancient Greek design. The market resembled ancient Athens, was built during the war in 1942. 100 architects from Venice came over to build churches, in the end only 3/7 were built but lots of them remained there.
After the tour, we escaped the rain with coffee and some of the most incredible pastries at a cosy cake shop recommended by Helena. Not long after, we headed back to the station to catch a bus to Lake Bled.
After two incredible days there, we returned to Ljubljana and this time, the weather couldn’t have been more different. Sunshine completely transformed the city. The river sparkled, the buildings glowed, and everything felt even more vibrant.
We decided to hike up to Ljubljana Castle, a medieval fortress dating largely to the 16th century, originally built as a defence against Ottoman invasions. The climb was worth it for the panoramic views across the city.
Next stop was the House of Illusions Ljubljana, which was so much fun; mirror mazes, upside-down rooms, and all sorts of mind-bending exhibits. A definite highlight (and finally, my chance to be taller than George).
By this point, we were starving. Our tour guide had mentioned a Friday food market, which we were excited about. However, after searching everywhere, it was nowhere to be found! After triple-checking we weren’t just being clueless, we gave up and went hunting for food elsewhere.
That’s when we stumbled across a brilliant street food-style BBQ spot. We grabbed a table outside, ordered a grilled chicken flatbread with peppers and onions, and settled in. A live band, Pointless Rebels, were playing country music nearby, which made the whole atmosphere even better. Not a bad way to kill time before a 1am bus.
We boarded our overnight bus from Ljubljana to Budapest at 1am and arrived at 6:20am. Efficient? Yes. Good for sleep? Absolutely not. George scored 29 on his sleep tracker and mine didn’t even register that I’d slept at all.
Still, tired but excited, we were ready for the next adventure.
Soph’s Scribbles 
Leave a comment